Sewing machine needles: how to choose for knitwear, numbers and application

How to choose a sewing needle? This question is asked by everyone who starts sewing. A needle is one of the most important components of the sewing process and a lot depends on its correct choice! Once you start working with the wrong needle, problems will not keep you waiting: from torn threads to a broken sewing machine. We'll tell you how to choose a sewing needle depending on the project you're doing and the fabric you've chosen for it. In order to navigate the assortment of needles offered by stores, you do not need to have knowledge of the technical intricacies of production. It is enough to understand the marking methods and know what the parts of the needle are called. After a short theoretical part, we will help you choose a needle for any occasion!

Main parts of machine needle

The bulb is the thick upper part of the needle that is fixed in the sewing machine. The flask of industrial needles is completely round, while the flask of household needles is flat on one side.
The blade (shaft) of the needle is the main narrow part; it is its diameter that becomes the size of the needle.
Eyelet is the hole into which the thread is threaded.
Groove (groove) is a notch along the front of the needle, from the bulb to the eye.
The point is the tapering part from the eye to the tip of the needle
The tip is the end of the needle and comes in different shapes depending on the type of needle.

Hand Needles Hand needles are simpler and consist of an eye, a shaft, a point and a tip.

Overlock needles Overlock needles have the same parts as regular machine needles, but are made slightly differently and cannot replace each other.

For industrial sewing machines

The main difference from household models is the rounded shape of the instruments. The length and purpose are also not the same as those of the analogues presented above. The most famous companies producing needles with the appropriate characteristics:

"Organ";
"Grotz-Beckert";
"Schmetz."

These companies offer needles for different purposes, including for Singer machines:

Blind seam.
Devices for simulating hand stitching.
Coverstitching machines.
Riveting machines for which your own option will be suitable.
Button.
Furriers.
Erect.
Embroidery The product will definitely be of high quality if you choose it correctly.
Overlockers, and so on.

Each device has its own marking, this factor is also paid attention to. Only in this case will the needle last a long time.

Features of work

Additional selection tips

In the case of a point, there are two main groups of devices:

For textile group, with rounded end.
For leather, with blade shape. Mass is not that important.

Only with the right choice of needle can you get a beautiful stitch look. In this case, it is easier to avoid various damage to the material. The thinnest type of foundation will hold up.

Pay attention. The streamlining of the eye of the needle, together with the external shape, leads to the unhindered passage of the point through the eye. The inner side of the latter remains smooth, which facilitates the movement of any materials. Interweaving or breaking of the thread does not occur under such circumstances.

A good loop depends on the shape of the gutter. Previously, the main one was the so-called “round groove”. But now it is a thing of the past, it is being replaced with a device called Pontoon. This is the groove that prevents the appearance of defects both in the threads and in the needles themselves. The French manufacturer adheres to the same rules.

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The force with which the needle pierces the fabric depends on the design of the needle pin. The service life is also largely determined by this parameter.

Interesting. The needle holder inside the sewing machine is usually made with a certain diameter. If the size of the flask and the holder do not correspond to each other, the machine simply cannot be used for its intended purpose.

Needle marking

Hand needles are produced without special markings. Their name reflects their functions: universal sewing, embroidery, darning, for leather, for beads, etc. Also on the packaging is the needle size: from 1 to 15 or 13-26 (different systems). The sewing machine needle is marked with a special code that will help you find the right needle even without packaging. This code consists of numbers and letters and is located on the flask. The numbers are the diameter (thickness) of the needle, measured in hundredths of a millimeter or fractions of an inch. For example, the number 60 corresponds to a thickness of 0.6 mm. Sometimes the manufacturer indicates both sizes, then the values are written as 80/12. The letters will tell you which machines and materials this needle should work with. The letter H stands for a universal needle; its tip is slightly rounded. Clarifications regarding the type of fabric are added with a hyphen.

Marking options

HJ for thick fabrics (with pointed tip)

HM “microtex”, for thin, densely woven materials (extra thin and sharp)

HS for stretch, knitted materials (with slightly rounded tip and special edge, for stitching without gaps)

HE needles for embroidery (rounded tip with a special notch, and a slightly larger eye)

HQ needles for stitching, quilting (rounded tip with a special notch, and a slightly smaller eye)

H-SUK for heavy knitted fabrics (round point)

H-LR , H-LL for genuine leather (beveled point with a “spatula”)

H-ZWI double needles

H-DRI triple needles

ELx705 or HAx1 SP - this code designates needles for overlockers and cover stitching machines.

Recently, color designations for needles have been used: blue bulbs for denim needles, crimson bulbs for microtex needles, yellow bulbs for knitwear needles.

Types of needles for sewing machines

Residents of Moscow and St. Petersburg can easily choose the right tool - variety allows. If you live in a small town, online shopping will be your salvation. They can order parts of all sizes and shapes for any sewing machine. There is no need to worry about delivery by mail, because this is a group of goods that is difficult to damage. The cost of quality products is affordable, and if you are serious about sewing, you should not skimp on tools - a bad needle can seriously damage the fabric. Which manufacturers have become the favorites of professionals?

For knitwear

The tool should not cut the fabric, so it is advisable to choose samples with a round tip. The part does not pierce the threads, but passes between them. The best options for knitwear: HS, H-SUK, H-SES. Popular model:

Name: SCHMETZ Stretch 130/705 HS.
Price: 125 rubles.
Characteristics: set of 5 copies – 2×65, 2×75, 1×90. Material of manufacture: nickel. The flask is cut, diameter 2.04 mm.
Pros: excellent product quality, suitable for highly elastic knitted materials, standard bulb size for household sewing machines.
Cons: none found.

The German company Schmetz is a leader in the production of goods in this category. Sewing needles for machines from this manufacturer break extremely rarely. Product ideal for knitwear:

Name: SCHMETZ Jersey 130/705 H-SUK Combi.
Price: 89 rub.
Characteristics: set contains 5 needles – 1×70, 2×80, 1×90, 1×100. Made of nickel, steel color. The flask is cut, diameter 2.04 mm.
Pros: Best choice for knitwear.
Cons: none found.

For skin

Another titan in the production of needles for various purposes is the Japanese company ORGAN NEEDLE co. Ltd. Experienced seamstresses know that the Lady and the Organ emblem is a symbol of reliability. For dense materials, craftswomen use the following model:

Name: Machine leather needle Organ Needles Leder Leather Cuir130/705 H-LL.
Price: 270 rub.
Characteristics: set contains 5 samples – 3x90, 2x100. Suitable for working with suede, pigskin, calfskin, goatskin.
Pros: long service life, excellent stitch quality.
Cons: there are factory defects with defective ears, there are many fakes on sale.

Another German company produces quality products. The Groz-Beckert brand (the name Grotz-Beckert is often found on the Internet) specializes in the creation of industrial needles. For leather the company has the following set:

Name: Groz-Beckert DBx1 LR.
Price: 190 rub.
Characteristics: set includes 10 copies No. 90/14. The length from the beginning of the needle eye to the base is 33.8 mm. The thickness of the flask is 1.62 mm. The product is intended for upright machines, creates a diagonal seam with a slope to the right.
Pros: low rate of breakage, thread breakage, stitch skipping, high cut quality, long service life.
Cons: not suitable for home sewing machines.

For denim

The very sharp end of the HJ type piece fits neatly into thick fabric without damaging the threads. The needlewomen liked this set of tools:

Name: Prym Nadeln Jeans 130/705.
Price: 271 rub.
Characteristics: set includes 5 samples No. 90/14. Material of manufacture – steel, color – silver. The smoothing size corresponds to the needle size.
Pros: the eyelet is well polished, which prevents damage to the thread, the parameters of the part ensure ideal loop formation and error-free threading.
Cons: expensive.

There are needles on sale from domestic manufacturers. They are cheap, so needlewomen for whom sewing is a rare hobby buy them. Budget proposal:

Name: Needle for Artie jeans.
Price: 42 rub.
Characteristics: set includes 5 samples No. 100. Manufacturing material – tool steel.
Pros: inexpensive, works well.
Cons: often break and bend.

For finishing stitch

Using a double or triple needle you can make beautiful finishing seams. The H-ZWI, H-DRI tool is not suitable for all machines, but only for those with a zigzag stitch (Singer, Brother, Janome, Juki and others), and it works exclusively in straight stitch mode. The following model is popular:

Name: Double needles for Hemline knitwear.
Price: 189 rub.
Characteristics: the set contains one copy No. 80, the distance between the rods is 4 mm. Manufacturing material – steel. Suitable for creating decorative stitching on knitted, elastic fabric with thick pile. The tip is rounded.
Pros: durable, does not damage fibers, suitable for all modern machines.
Disadvantages: does not always make the perfect line, is whimsical in work.

Particularly beautiful stitches are obtained when using a triple needle. To make a decorative seam perfect, you need to choose a high-quality tool, for example:

Name: SCHMETZ Universal Triple Needle H-DRI.
Price: 169 rub.
Characteristics: the set contains one universal specimen No. 80 with a distance between the rods of 2.5 mm. Material of manufacture: nickel.
Pros: convenient plastic case for storage and carrying, high durability of the product.
Cons: none found.

Double needle

A tool with two rods is designed for making decorative seams that do not experience heavy loads. If you need to embroider parallel elements of a design at the same time, a double needle is indispensable. Popular Tool:

Name: Hemline Klasse double embroidery.
Price: 151 rub.
Characteristics: one copy No. 75 with a distance between the rods of 3 mm. Product length – 3.8 cm. Color: steel, red. Purpose: finishing with stitching after embroidering with polyester or rayon threads on thin fabrics.
Pros: a large hole into which the thread can be easily threaded; it is convenient to store the product in a plastic case.
Cons: requires reduced speed in operation.

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Sales on this part are rare because the price is affordable. The price category of the following manufacturer is higher than that of other well-known brands, but the quality is consistent:

Name: Prym Double Needle 130/705.
Price: 271 rub.
Characteristics: one copy No. 100, width between rods 6 mm. The point is rounded, intended for knitwear.
Pros: durable, long lasting.
Cons: none found.

With wings

Using a sword-shaped needle, you can create beautiful openwork stitches and hemstitching. Top seller in category:

Name: SCHMETZ Hemstitch Needle 130/705 H WING.
Price: 180 rub.
Characteristics: the set contains one copy No. 100/16 with two longitudinal projections (wings) on the rod. Used on loosely woven materials.
Pros: The sewing machine needle is of impeccable quality.
Cons: none found.

A tool with wings creates an openwork pattern that looks especially impressive on fabrics with a loose weave structure: cambric, linen, cotton. Popular Product:

Name: Hemline Klasse for hemstitching.
Price: 215 rub.
Characteristics: the set contains one copy No. 100/16. Product length – 3.9 cm.
Pros: lasts a long time, durable, does not bend.
Cons: expensive.

Self-threading needle

The tool is convenient for those who find it difficult to thread a needle. At the same level as the eyelet there is a slot through which the thread is passed, after which it enters the eyelet itself. The model is optimal for working with medium-weight fabrics. Self-threading needles for sewing machines are extremely rare on sale; there are no such sets in the lines of well-known manufacturers. If a person has difficulty threading, you can use the following tool:

Name: Threader for Hemline 136 sewing machine.
Price: 218 rub.
Characteristics: the set includes two threaders - a needle threader (extra-long for overlockers and sewing machines), a loop threader (thin threader for overlockers).
Pros: makes it easier to insert the thread into the eye.
Cons: It is not clear from the manufacturer’s description how to use the device.

Manufacturing companies

In sewing supply stores you will find a large selection of needles from different companies. What sewing needles are best to buy? We advise you to choose needles from trusted manufacturers: the German companies Schmetz and Grotz-Beckert, as well as the Japanese company Organ Needles. The products of these companies justify their price with a wide range and excellent quality, especially for special needles (knitwear, stretch, etc.). Universal economy class needles are produced by the Russian group and the Australian company Hemline.

The curator of the supply of Schmetz needles in the Russian Federation, Elmar Brandt, explained that all Schmetz needles are made from the same wire. Then, depending on the type, the needles are plated with nickel or chromium.

Digital marking

As mentioned earlier, the quality of the future product depends on the correct choice of needle, especially for home machines. Machines like Brother are designed to handle a wide variety of jobs, so you need to pay special attention to choosing the right tools and materials.

So, let's look at the symbols on the needles. The number in the first place gives information about the diameter of the needle; as a rule, this value is indicated in hundredths of a millimeter. Thus, the lower the number you see, the more invisible the hole made for the thread will be.

The next marking number (written after the fraction) indicates the number of this needle for countries that use a non-metric measurement system - yards, miles, inches, etc. For example: a needle No. 80\12 has a diameter of eight tenths of a millimeter, as indicated by the applied marking.

Experts do not recommend constantly choosing needles of small diameter - their size may not be suitable for denser fabric. The owner of any machine - Brother, Janome, Bernina - when changing the type of fabric, it is recommended to choose a tool suitable for processing it.

Sewing needles

Now let's find out how to choose a sewing needle. We will focus on the type of material you will use in your work.

Universal needle

Denim needle

Needle for tightly woven materials (microtex)

Knitting needle

Needle for stretch materials

Select by device type

When purchasing, it is recommended to take the following criteria as a guide:

Manufacturer. Here are just some of the companies that have become the best - Groz-Beckert, Organ, Scnmertz. If you give preference to well-known companies, you don’t have to worry about quality. The curvature of the tool and the absence of external defects are the most important parameters checked before starting work.
Characteristics of the fabric, the use of which is planned. There are special tables containing information regarding the purpose of each type of instrument. Different fabrics require their own shapes and thickness.
A type of sewing machine. For example, an industrial look. It is better to study the instructions issued for the device in advance. This document also provides recommendations on which tool is best to take in a given case. When replacing, it is especially important to observe this point; serious differences are noticeable in the flasks.

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Needle selection

How to choose the right needles for your home sewing machine?

The needles of home devices are equipped with flat flasks. This makes the correct installation of tools and other accessories easier. Industrial needles should not be used inside household appliances. If a curvature is detected, you can try to straighten it to correct the defect. You need to choose the right tool.

Important. If the quality of the products is high, they will not bend. Steel or nickel will simply break if you try too hard to fix the situation. But this is an indicator that the device is of high quality.

Exploitation

For hand embroidery

For hand cross stitch, use short needles, up to 3 cm long. They have a rounded point that gently pushes the fabric weave apart, and an elongated oval-shaped eye into which it is convenient to insert floss threads in several layers. These needles are also called tapestry needles and have sizes from 13 to 28. For embroidery with satin or artistic satin stitch, you should take longer and sharper needles. For embroidery, you can also use a special double-sided needle.

It is longer than regular needles and has a hole in the middle for thread. A double-ended needle is designed to allow you to embroider with both hands without turning the needle, which significantly saves time. When working with beads, take the thinnest needles with the same thin eye. This needle will easily fit into the thin hole of the bead.

For machine embroidery, use special needles!

How to choose sewing machine needles by numbers

Beginners should purchase several needles that are used most often. Each tool has its own number, these numbers indicate the diameter of the rod:

for light fabrics, for example, chiffon and cambric, you should take needles No. 65 or No. 75, they are universal, as they are used when sewing blouses, T-shirts, dresses, shirts;
for denser materials such as cotton and wool, needles No. 75, No. 80 are suitable;
for sewing products from denim or coat fabric, woolen clothes, you need to take thick needles, preferably number 90 or 100, they are sharp, due to which they quickly pierce the material;
for knitted fabric, needles with numbers 70-80 are well suited; if the fabric is thick enough, then it is better to use tools marked 90;
highly elastic material, especially if the composition contains lycra and requires thinner sewing needles, numbers 65 and 70 are best suited.

Usually the marking is indicated on the packaging, so choosing a needle with the required thickness is not difficult. Even a beginner can cope with the task; it is enough to take into account a simple rule: the thicker the material, the thicker the working tool should be.

For machine embroidery

They are made more durable to cope with increased impact loads.
And, although the price of such needles is significantly higher, the service life of an embroidery needle is much longer. Most often, 75/11 needles are used for embroidery; 90/14 needles are suitable for working on thick fabrics. Embroidery needles are distinguished by red bulbs and the following letter codes

HE standard embroidery needles

HO needle with wide “wings”, for openwork embroidery, hemstitching

H-ZWI-HO double needle, with a “winged” needle, for special effects during openwork embroidery

Working with leather and fur

Skin needles are produced with an unusual tip shape. It looks like a spatula, has a beveled edge and a triangular sharpening. Hand needle leather needle size from 1 to 8. Machine leather needles are marked

H-LR or H-LL

They pierce the material at an angle of 45 or 135 degrees to the seam line itself, thus creating a beautiful inclination of the stitches (to the right or to the left). Sizes from 90/14 to 110/18. To hand stitch fur, use the same needles as for leather. A machine for stitching natural fur is called a furrier machine. Choose needles for such a machine following the instructions; unlike ordinary needles, they are not universal. For thinner fur, such as mink, needles of size 40-60 are suitable, for thick sheepskin - size 80.

Drawing conclusions

The correct choice of needle size depends not only on the type of fabric, but also on the number of layers that need to be sewn. Determine the best option experimentally.

The needle should not only be replaced when it breaks! For high-quality stitching, we recommend changing the needle after 12-15 hours of continuous work or after completing two to three projects; ideally, you need to take a new needle for each product. This is especially true for sewing from dense and heavy materials.

If you are just starting to sew, buy a set of hand needles and a needle set that will fit your sewing machine. This way you can try out different needles before starting work and decide on the optimal needle size.

Before installing a new needle, make sure it is free of rust and not bent.

Always use needles recommended by the sewing machine manufacturer.

How to choose your own sewing machine needle

When choosing a sewing machine needle, you need to adhere to certain criteria. They are as follows:

A needle is purchased for each type of sewing machine. Before going to the store, you should read the instructions; they contain all the necessary information. Usually the number and marking are indicated there.
Fabric type. When sewing a product, it is important to follow the rules and take into account the purpose of each working tool in accordance with the characteristics of the material. It must be suitable in shape and thickness.
Manufacturer. It will depend on the company how high quality the firmware will be, as well as how long the needle will last. Janome, Organ, Schmetz are recognized as the best manufacturers.

If you need to choose a needle yourself, it is important to take into account all the specified criteria. It is also necessary to inspect the product for defects before purchasing. The needle should not be crooked, the eye should be positioned correctly in relation to the groove. The tip should be well sharpened and not rusty.