The refrigerator compressor tries to start but won't start.


The operation of the refrigerator is directly related to the circulation of freon in the system. This process is ensured by a specialized unit - a motor-compressor. If the performance of this unit is lost, or if the compressor does not start (or starts and immediately turns off) on the refrigerator, the refrigerator will not be able to perform its direct function - cooling.

However, the node does not always start due to a malfunction. In fact, there may be no breakdown at all, but the motor will not start due to insufficient voltage. Also, the reasons may be related to the breakdown of other components. For example, wiring or stabilizer failure. In this case, the refrigerator will be de-energized and will not start. If the relay clicks, but the engine does not start, there is probably a short circuit in the windings of the electrical appliance, or the starting relay itself may be faulty.

Signs of a compressor malfunction

If the refrigerator operates with irregular temperature conditions, often turns on or, on the contrary, almost never turns off, or gets very cold, this is a reason to think about the serviceability of the unit.

Usually the refrigerator compressor does not start after abnormal operation or overload. A jammed node occurs if you unplug the device for less than a minute. For this reason, we categorically do not recommend doing this.

You need to check the nodes and look for the causes sequentially. If the motor runs without turning off, the diagnostic area narrows, but this does not mean that the fault is necessarily in this unit. But, even if the reason is, for example, control sensors or relays, or a refrigerant leak, the situation cannot be ignored. In any case, working for wear, this unit will sooner or later overheat and fail.

Refilling the refrigerator with freon

You can talk about a breakdown of the compressor itself if the following symptoms appear:

  • The engine hums and tries to start, but it doesn't.
  • An oily puddle appeared on the floor under the device.
  • The engine gets very hot, knocks, vibrates, makes noise at start and during operation.

Since the unit consists of two devices: the engine and the compressor, it is necessary to distinguish between their breakdowns. In general, motor-compressor malfunctions can be associated with:

  • interturn and short circuit of the stator windings (applies to the motor);
  • short circuit of the windings to the housing (also applies to the motor);
  • loss of productivity;
  • depressurization.

It is possible to determine what exactly happened by indirect signs. If the device operates without shutdowns, and the temperature in the chambers is high, it may be a refrigerant leak. Sometimes diagnostics show that compression has disappeared. This indicates the development of the device. It is better to replace it with a new unit.

If the compressor hums when turned on and does not start, and there are no short circuits in the windings, it is most likely jammed.

What to do if the device does not freeze?

Most often, the refrigerator works, but does not freeze due to loss of refrigerant. If this is your case, call a specialist.

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Agent leakage occurs due to cracks, they are visible, it is worth checking with special equipment. The technician will remove the damage and fill in new freon. But if many new cracks have formed, then the entire system will have to be replaced.

The reason is that the refrigerator works, but does not freeze, or perhaps the thermostat is broken. The motor and unit do not turn on the compressor, the device does not freeze or, conversely, does it more than necessary.

Another reason why the freezer in the refrigerator does not work is that the relay does not work. And then the whole system does not function correctly. It is better to entrust the replacement of the relay to a specialist.

If you see that the door does not close well, which is why warm air constantly gets into the chamber, replace the seal.

Other reasons why the refrigerator works but the chamber does not freeze:

  • The refrigerant system is clogged . Use a hydraulic tool to clean the tube. The technician will also determine whether there is a need to change the filter.
  • No pressure coming in . Usually you can hear the relay clicking, the device is very loud and the motor is burnt out. The reason is power surges, overheating due to prolonged operation, and the thermostat at the lowest temperature.
  • Defrosting heating element failure.

The compressor in the refrigerator has broken down - what to do?

Replacing a compressor is one of the most difficult and expensive services in service centers. In addition, the spare part itself is expensive. The experience of the craftsmen and many years of observations show that if a device has a worn-out unit and there is a large output, it is better to immediately replace it with a new one. But in some cases, for example, if gaskets, rings or individual engine parts are worn out, the part can be repaired. The final decision is made by the master, based on the feasibility of the procedure.

You can try to wedge a jammed compressor. For this, a specialized device is used, consisting of 2 diodes with a permissible reverse voltage of at least 400V and a maximum forward current of 10 Amperes. For example, KD 203 A, D 232 A, D 246-247.

To eliminate the wedge using this design, voltage is applied to the motor windings for 3–5 seconds. The action is repeated after 30 seconds. The device can be connected through the starting relay connectors P1, P2 or P3 or using insulated clamps. The operating principle of the design is based on the useful torque that occurs on the motor shaft when current flows through the diodes. The motor rotor begins to vibrate, the vibration is transmitted to the jammed components and releases them.

Electrical circuit diagram of a device for wedging compressors

Is it possible to check and repair the compressor yourself?

The technology for replacing a compressor is unsafe, very complex and requires the use of specialized tools:

  • oxygen-propane burner;
  • pipe cutter;
  • leak detector (it is also used to determine the location of the freon leak);
  • electronic thermometer;
  • valves for freon extraction and piercing;
  • Hansen couplings;
  • dehumidifier;
  • pinch pliers;
  • solder and flux;
  • charging cylinder;
  • new motor-compressor.

You should think about whether it is advisable to purchase all this to replace the compressor? Buying all the parts will cost more than the services of a repairman.

Another argument against is the high danger of the work. After all, work is carried out with gas, an explosive substance. Is it worth putting yourself at risk? Without experience and the necessary knowledge, there is a risk of damaging the tubes, releasing all the gas or disrupting the balancing.

For those who have decided to do the work on their own or are simply interested in how complex the procedure is and how it works, we will describe the technology of work when replacing a motor-compressor.

Important! We strongly do not recommend replacing the compressor yourself! This is life-threatening!

Removing the old compressor:

  • Cut with a file and break off the filling tube.
  • Cut and break off the capillary tube at a distance of approximately 2–3 cm from the filter drier.
  • At a distance of 1–2 cm from the compressor tube seam, cut off the suction and discharge tubes; do the same with the desiccant at a distance of 1–1.5 cm from the condenser-filter seam. To do this, use a pipe cutter.
  • Remove the start relay.
  • Remove the compressor mount.
  • Remove the compressor itself.
  • Clean the pipeline.

The most common causes of breakdowns

In order to determine the cause of the malfunction, you need to pay close attention to the signs of breakdowns. This will make it possible to independently determine their source and, if possible, eliminate it.

First, you should check whether there is electricity in the network and whether the refrigerator is connected to the outlet. If everything is fine here, but the following situations arise:

  1. The motor does not start, but the light bulb works, periodic clicks are heard from time to time - these signs may indicate a breakdown of the refrigerator compressor. A clicking sound when starting the refrigerator indicates a broken part and the need to replace it. Audible clicks are produced by the relay that starts the engine and is responsible for its operation;
  2. The refrigerator starts but immediately turns off. The light is on, but the motor is not running. If there are no clicks from the start relay, then it is most likely that the thermostat responsible for the temperature level in the unit has broken down. The refrigerator control system does not receive confirmation that the temperature in the refrigerator chamber is exceeded, so the system does not start;
  3. The light in the refrigerator does not work and the motor does not turn on. The cause may be a broken plug or a network fault.

These basic combinations of breakdowns are not always informative; based on them, it is impossible to accurately say about the cause of the breakdown.

To determine the exact location of the breakdown, it is advisable to call a specialist. He has the necessary equipment, tools and experience to accurately identify the breakdown.

What to do if the refrigerator makes a lot of noise?

When the refrigerator starts to work louder than usual, we first get annoyed, and then we think about what to do if it breaks down. Permissible noise from the device is 55 dB.

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If the number is higher, it is necessary to carry out diagnostics:

  • Check that all shipping fasteners have been removed.
  • Some new refrigerators adapt and start working normally after only seven days.
  • Make sure the device is positioned correctly. It should not rest against a wall or other furniture. We recommend leaving about 5 cm of free space on either side.
  • Check the contents of the refrigerator. Perhaps the pan is placed next to a glass bottle, which causes additional noise.
  • If you hear loud sounds as soon as the engine starts, this is not a sign of a breakdown. First, the starting current needed to start appears.

The diagnostics did not give any results, do you still think that the refrigerator is not working and how to fix it?

Noise appears due to internal breakdowns:

  • The refrigerator compressor does not work . Then, however, the technology begins to grumble. Pistons or rings may wear out. The solution is to install a new compressor.
  • Weakening of shock absorbers . If the most unpleasant sounds occur during the beginning and end of engine operation, then most likely this is precisely this malfunction. The solution is to adjust the compressor shock absorbers.
  • The fan in the refrigerator is not working properly . The blades touch the ice, causing noise. The solution is defrosting.

Determining the specific cause of the breakdown

A malfunction of the compressor motor is one of the most difficult breakdowns in a refrigerator. This is evidenced by the clicking of the thermostat.

If the owner of the refrigerator knows how to work with electric motors, then it is possible to ring the compressor winding - its three contacts should respond without shorting to the housing.

When traces are found between the contacts and the housing, or a resistance of less than 20 ohms is found between them, the compressor cannot be repaired. The replacement must be carried out by a technician in a repair shop.

A serious breakdown that prevents the refrigerator from starting is a malfunction of the thermostat. If there is no characteristic click when the thermostat is turned on, the contact may break and this prevents the thermostat from turning on.

If you have experience working with electrical equipment, you should find two wires that connect to the thermostat. Then the wires are removed from the terminals. We connect the wires tightly. If the device starts, it must be replaced.

Installing a new thermostat

If the problem is not resolved, then you need to check the elements of the device that are powered from the network. These are the start relay and the protection relay. Quite often they are located in a common building. The test is carried out with an ohmmeter. If a break is detected, the faulty part is replaced with a new one. If no faults are found according to this diagram, then the cause of the breakdown is the electronic circuit - only a professional can replace it.

Network faults can be one of the reasons why the refrigerator starts but immediately turns off, or does not start at all.

Normal startup of the refrigerator is carried out at a minimum network voltage of 200 to 240. If there are deviations, the device will not start. A sign of too low voltage in the network may be a very weak glow of the light bulb and a hum. If the compressor is humming - does not turn on, does not freeze, then a voltmeter can be used to determine the possible voltage.

You should also inspect the plug and power cord of the refrigerator. If there are no problems, you need to inspect the outlet to which the refrigerator is connected. To check it, you need to try connecting any household appliance to the outlet.

Atlant refrigerator compressor does not turn on

In order to avoid possible problems caused by too high or too low voltage when working with the Atlant refrigerator, a stabilizer is needed.

The reasons causing such malfunctions will be:

  • damage to the socket or power cord;
  • breakdown in the start relay;
  • engine-compressor breakdown;
  • Temperature controller failure.

What to check first

There may be several reasons why the above-described operational disturbances may occur. If you have at least minimal knowledge of the structure of household appliances, you can identify the breakdown yourself. Professionals advise sticking to the following operating algorithm, but here you need to take into account the type of thermostat.

View » Malfunctions of the Bosch No Frost two-chamber refrigerator

For devices with a mechanical thermostat, there are 3 possible causes of failure:

  • damage to the start relay;
  • thermostat failure;
  • Compressor malfunction.

The order in which all the listed details should be checked is not very important. You can start with the node that is most accessible. This rule applies to those devices that stand against a wall or in a niche.

The thermostat should be checked after turning off the device. All those parts that may interfere with the inspection are removed. First of all, these are lampshades and covers.

The next stage is connecting the wires to each other (those that go to the contacts). In this case, the ground wire should not be touched (most often it can be recognized by the green winding). The types of thermostats located in the lighting shade also have a blue wire, which is also not used. After completing this work, the device is connected to the mains. If startup occurs, then the problem lies in the thermostat. If there are no changes, then proceed to checking other elements.

If the refrigerator has an electronic thermostat, then it can be classified as a more complex device. To identify faults, it may be necessary to check the entire module electrically. This kind of work should be entrusted to a specialist.

However, some details can be checked on your own. This is the presence of burnt out elements, the absence of damage to the cable, as well as the strength of the contacts. All these manipulations are carried out only after disconnecting the device from the electrical network.

If a breakdown has not been detected and the equipment does not want to start, then you should proceed to checking the start relay.

In this case, the refrigerator will have to be moved away. In addition, some models are equipped with a partition that completely covers the engine compartment - this must be removed. In most models, the relay is located on the left. After opening the lid you can get to the inside. If no external damage is observed, the connections are removed from the contacts and checked using a multimeter. The problem may lie in the compressor winding.

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